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The Varanasi Ganja Express moves at 40 miles an hour across Delhi’s urban sprawl towards Varanasi. We board amidst a phalanx of porters cutting a path through a Red Sea of humanity. We are the entertainment for a sea of brown faces occupying chunks of space that make my tiny airline seat from a few nights ago look luxurious.

Railroad stations are part homeless shelter, part disease vector, part commercial empire and <–Previous  –  Next–>



 

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